Dresden links with Italy have always been something special. "Florence" or "German Florence" - so the names sound too corny, they make on the essence of attention: The Italian was in the city has always been something original - as in the case of the "Villa Marie", an old villa in the Tuscan style. It is a pleasantly warm spring day. Inside the timeless, simply decorated restaurant dines happily a small wedding party. Outside in the garden, guests relax with a plate of tagliatelle their bike tours along the Elbe. Others sit on the veranda at Vitello tonnato the view of the "Blue Wonder", a steely-filigree bridge from 1893. Or they look very relaxed behind the Elbe steamer.
We want the kitchen of Klaus and his team-Karsten Heidsiek get to know. Heidsiek has cooked in Italy for ten years, including eight years at the side of Gualtiero Marchesi in Milan.
From the first course, a salad of Polpo with green asparagus and cherry tomatoes, is his interpretation of Italian cuisine seen: no fancy experiments, but a seasonal cuisine, which is characterized by an elegant simplicity. The flesh of the squid is firm beautiful. It complements the harmonious aromatic cherry tomatoes and spicy asparagus. "The basic products are very important. If they are good, they must in the preparation can not be changed significantly, "said Heidsiek.
at the Italian Kitchen He particularly appreciates the cooking with a few components. "A salad is not a side dish in Italy, but a single passage, which communicates with its specific flavor components by themselves," said the 50-year-old chef and farmer. The second course, ravioli with goat cheese, grilled zucchini and pesto, goat cheese flavor, the first is the focus. The filling is creamy and tastes nice, strong, but not drowned out the taste of the ravioli. The grilled zucchini slices have gotten through the liquid withdrawal a stronger flavor, stick with the pesto but discreetly in the background.
quite different to the fish course, roasted salmon on spinach. Here konbiniert the kitchen a classic with a light sauce of citrus, basil and butter. With the slightly bitter, fruity-sour taste of pink grapefruit, orange, lemon and lime, the court is spiced up refined.
The next increase can not wait to: Spanferkelkottelets with fig mustard sauce and grilled vegetables. This course is the attention to the bright, juicy and tender meat that has been previously cooked with a sprig of rosemary and a clove of garlic in olive oil. The fig-mustard sauce gives the meat a slightly sweet sharpness. "Part of our meat is purchased from an organic farmer from the nearby Ore, "said restaurant manager Sebastian Roelke. This dissect the animal, even after the special wishes of customers. So it happens that the Villa Marie and their guests from the famous to offer Bistecca fiorentina in very limited editions.
"For such a delicacy is prepared to our customers to pay a few euros more," said Roelke further. If possible, refer Heidsiek his goods liked by producers from the region. Also from Italy every week fresh supplies. But back to our menu, because the dessert makes his role as a grand finale worthy of: Elderberry jelly with whipped mascarpone cheese and lime cream.
The pleasant floral and mild-tasting elderberry jelly is highlighted in conjunction with the full-bodied and sweet and sour cream mascarpone prepared very well. All in all, a perfectly balanced menu. Probably because of its simplicity us the specifics of each course will long be remembered.
The wine list is extensive. About 100 bottles of wines to choose from, most of it comes from Piedmont and Tuscany. The plants are on the "Villetta" bought, the second restaurant Heidsieker and the central warehouse. The cozy restaurant in the district of Dresden Striesen can buy the wines to take home or to a corkage fee of 10,00 € per Drink bottle on the spot. Finally now the working philosophy is to recognize Heidsieker well. "I'm from the kitchen, I'm from this restaurant, and I want to feel in my local charity," he explained.
His return from Italy 18 years ago was not entirely voluntary. "I wanted to stay there and make me own," says Heidsiek, who comes from a family of restaurateurs, near Minden. Unfortunately, he found that a German chef can offer in Italy, no Italian food. "I have been there with German cuisine can do independently, but I did not want," he recalls. Back in Germany he went to Heidelberg, where he graduated from the hotel school additional training as a chef.
The first meeting with the Villa Marie in 1993 was love at first sight, the entry a "purely emotional decision." "Today, I admire some of my courage back then," said Heidsiek. For the life of the villa had been repeatedly marked by difficulties. The most dramatic phase was in 2002 when the flood of the century the "Old Lady" - as he calls the house full of love - to its knees. Some of the staff had to be dismissed, the rest worked with waiver with the full salary in the reconstruction. Six months later lit up the villa in a new light. Despite or perhaps because of such setbacks, the East Westphalia feel with Villa Marie very closely.
Villa Marie
Fährgässchen a
01309 Dresden
www.villa-marie.com
© Marlies Moser
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