Viñales: In the valley of the dinosaurs
"headache we have here every day. This is normal, "said I, smiling a leader of the City Museum of Viñales. I spend just a few days in the region of Pinar del Río, in southwestern Cuba, to learn about the bizarre landscape and me somewhat of climate, land and get used to people. So given the constant headaches are under the Caribbean sun. If only I brought a pack of painkillers.
Since drug shortages in Cuba, I can make myself at least at this scheme, an authentic picture of everyday life in this country. This I usually do not always succeed. Until now appears the Caribbean island as a beautiful backdrop. Strolling through Old Havana is dominated by the splendor of past centuries. And here in Viñales I can not even imagine that devastated nearly a year ago, a hurricane in the region. The most appealing looking Cubans bring us tourists, first impression that it can live quite well in the Creole socialism.
Viñales located in the valley and is a popular starting point for hikes and excursions. The area with the rust-red fertile soil is used for agriculture in addition to tourism in particular. This is not only growing the best tobacco, but a lot of fruit and vegetables. The fascinating is the surrealistic landscape of the so-called mogotes. At the sight of this hump-shaped mountain I get the feeling to find myself in a very different era. The Viñales Valley was the ideal location for Steven Spielberg's "Jurassic Park" was.
At the bus stop I will the daughter of my landlady Basita picked up, brought home and reinforced immediately with coffee, homemade lemonade and a sandwich. After the formalities Basita asks me my plans and within seconds, she organized a leader from friends for a hike in the afternoon. Actually I wanted to recover from the five-hour bus ride and first arrive.
My property is located on the main road from Vinales, on Calle Salvador Cisneros. In most other small cities in the world would this address traffic noise and stench mean - not so in Cuba. A car is an absolute luxury and only a very few people notice. People walk, use their bike or horse to get to your destination. Is also rife in the neighborhood only as of children.
the kids are told about the Viñales Valley, preferably the following legend: Once upon a time, the Mogotes cornerstone of a huge cave. One day, however, had a dinosaur suddenly sneeze so violently that the cave collapsed.
And so the story tellers are not very far from the truth: In the Jurassic the area was significantly higher than now. Underground rivers washed out the soft limestone. It was the large caves, which fell over time in part, to the harder Walls, the mogotes. do
My first hike in the Viñales Valley (name changed) I with Carlos, a medical student who wants to put me in the midday heat to a friend, tobacco shops, where I could drink a cocktail and traditional cigars now. I tell him though that I had in this heat no desire for alcohol and would not buy cigars come across, but it fell on deaf ears.
leads the way there past the pineapple, potato and Yukafeldern, mango trees, harvested tobacco fields and banana trees. "This year we have little bananas since the hurricane last year destroyed most of the perennials," said Carlos. According to media reports the two hurricanes "Gustav" and "Ike" 2008, a total ruin than a third of agricultural land and caused damage in the billions.
Nevertheless, the farmers must continue, according to Carlos 90 percent of their tobacco crop and 60 percent of the remaining crop at a fixed price issue to the state. About the rest they can have free. Very popular are the private farmers' markets, where prices are determined by very capitalist supply and demand.
Carlos shows me some caves, the limestone is very soft and porous. This is obviously a very favorable environment, because trees have their roots passing through the rock beaten and release the rust-red soil a nice color contrast. I can not see the Mogotes tired and waiting for them to appear like some dinosaurs. But no dinosaurs or other dangerous animals cross our path, which makes the area more attractive to tourists.
passes near a house, the smell of roasted coffee beans in my nose - a smell that turns up repeatedly in Viñales, as well as coffee beans grow here and thrive. About us turn turkey vultures do their rounds. Your ugly red heads and the strong momentum of their wings fascinate me.
When I am at home from my three and a half hour walk in the midday heat want to relax, I announced my landlord to visit. It's Salvador (name changed), a professional massage therapist, which I would like to offer his services. Since I was a massage on sunburn can not imagine very well and I would like Basitas zest slow a bit, I decline with thanks.
People in the Viñales Valley me in Havana Cuba, the East Frisians have been described, very friendly and naive. "But in reality, one where he meets the most enterprising people," said Iban, who accompanied as an English-and Turkish-speaking guides several times a week in the tourist town. Apparently he's right. I admit Basita understand that I would like to organize from now on alone and go to the center of the village of Viñales place with a very pretty but dilapidated church in colonial style.
have very close to the tour operator Havanatur Cubanacan and their offices where walks can be booked in the area on foot or on horseback, bicycles and day trips to the beaches of Maria la Gorda, Cayo Levisa on the island or elsewhere. Walks, at a slightly cheaper price, also offers the City Museum.
are in Viñales himself next to the City Museum the privately owned botanical garden "Casa de Caridad" is open, a little piece of paradise that the charismatic Carmen after the death of her sister Caridad, now alone cherishes and protects. The nightlife of Viñales takes place mainly at the Centro Cultural Polo Montañez, next to the church. Almost every evening there begins with a dance show and ends with lots of salsa and cocktails.
take my five days in Vinales by quickly, although I have nothing really made a lot: in the morning a few small hikes or bicycle tours, a day trip to Cayo Levisa, and in between lots of siesta.
The day before I left there, I encountered a small argument with my landlord. Although I knew that they had charged me too much 5.00 CUC per night, I give her small gifts from Germany to the final and explain her that I will not visit the facility of their accommodation in Trinidad, because I know that the general room rate was lower in the Casas particulares currently 5.00 CUC. First, she denies this: "Not true, I take no commission. Later, when I'm sitting at dinner, she gives me a lot of them back to the amount paid. "I am a good person," she says, and places her hand on his heart. This is probably the beginning of my very special love-hate relationship with the Cubans.
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Marlies Moser
